Chianti Region, Toscana

Onward with travels in Italy after spending some time in Rome, and San Momme, Toscana. I ended up on another hill overlooking the vineyards in the infamous Chianti region in Tuscany. I had booked a room in a villa that is geared toward budget travels although once it used to be a place for wealthy tourist, mainly old New York bankers, this is according to the owner of the villa. He says he likes the younger travelers because he learns something new every day. The villa is absolutely a dream place with views that I could see old New York bankers would pay thousands for.. but I get to enjoy it at a budget rate. Yay me!

I got to drink the stolen grapes of Sangiovese where in another winery, a bottle cost about 150 Euro. The owner of the villa I stayed in had taken the seeds of the same grapes of that winery and now produces his own Sangiovese wine which only cost me 1.5 euro a glass, a great bargain for sure.

The villa is on the top of the hill overlooking the whole chianti region. I learned more about winemaking in a conversation with Guido in fifteen minutes than I did my entire life thus fur. His vineyard have been making wines since 1000 B.C. and they have the second license in all of Italy to produce the Sangiovese wine.

One of my goals for this trip was to bike through Toscana.. and on my 2nd day of my stay.. I got to do just that. I took an old rented bike from the villa and biked to a small town San Baronto where I got my daily cup of cappucino. I got two that day because I was doing a 20 km bike ride through Tuscany. I went down a windy hill where I got to fly through the region.. it was one of those life embracing moments that I will look back with such happiness. A group of bikers waved and yelled "Ciao" as I was pummeling through the landscape.

Then down to Lamporecchio and across to town of Vinci, home of Leonardo Da Vanci. This is where I became physically challenged to finish my bike ride. Not having ridden a bike in years (not counting the stationary bike I use back home for light workout) I could not have fathomed how difficult the way up would be. Professional cyclists use these roads to train daily.

They whizzed past me as I walked most of the way up with my bike. I stopped to watch their training. How sync they are with each other in a group and they could be quite rude at times. Only time in Italy I have encountered any rudeness from the people except for a woman on a train on my way to San Momme.

Regardless, six hours later, I finished the 20 km bike ride.. I ended up having a love and hate relationship with the rented bicycle. I have many bruises from being hit with it on the way up. The bruises will fade but the memory of this bike ride will not be forgotten.

San Momme, Toscana

After leaving Rome, I traveled up north to Toscana region or Tuscany. Trains in Italy are the least expensive in Europe provided you take the slow train in second classe. I almost missed the train to Rome which had me in near fit of tears. I do not know why this journey has been taxing on me. Perhaps due to my emotional exhaustion beginning of trip has something to do with it. I made it just within minutes of train leaving for Firenze.

One thing a traveler must remember when riding the trains in Italy, is that you must validate your ticket before boarding. Fines are hefty although most conductors are lenient to foreign travelers.. however, they can fine you for 40 euros if you do not validate the ticket. The machines are located at various points in the station and it's really easy to validate, just insert your ticket into the slot. My train ride to Firenze was 3 hours and it was beautiful to watch the scenery change.

I am still breath taken with the lands of Italy.. the rolling hills.. vibrant red poppy flowers that decorate the already beautiful landscape. I arrived in Firenze SMN station and quickly boarded the next train for Pistoia. This is when my luggage broke. I have traveled with this suitcase for almost a decade and it was devastating to realize that my trusty indescript black rolling luggage is on her last leg. We put a lot of miles in traveling together.. No matter. I have no money or the heart to replace her during this trip.. so I continue on with the metal handle poking out through rest of my trip.

 

I arrived at Pistoia, Toscana and took a taxi to San Momme where I was staying. I did not realize that it was in a remote village up in the Appenine mountains. First sign of fate, the owner of this eco resort has the same birthday as I do. If you are seeking a true Tuscan experience away from the tourists, San Momme is the place to stay.

In the very remote Tuscan hill region with narrow roads that barely fit one car on the road,  it was interesting to see how the Italians lived in an area that is sparsely populated. They all knew each other of course yet inviting and warm to outsiders. The town had a church bell that rang every half hour and hour. It was a place where time stood still.

In the mountains, I found peace and all the tensions I carried melted away. There were times where I felt as the main character did in the movie, "Lost in Translation" as I did not speak the language and no one really spoke English. The solitude was deafening at times but it allowed me to contemplate many things which is the point of this trip.